La Pavoni Esperto Abile review

The short answer

The Esperto line takes a Professional-size La Pavoni lever and adds the two instruments owners usually bolt on themselves: a pressure gauge on the group and a temperature strip on the group head. La Pavoni also lists Brewing Pressure Profiling Control for the line, and the US importer ships it with competition baskets, a bottomless portafilter and a stainless tamper.

The Abile is the chrome version. The Competente (brass) and Edotto (copper) are the same machine in other finishes.

Why a group gauge matters on a lever

On a Europiccola or Professional, the only gauge (if there is one) shows boiler pressure. It tells you the machine is ready, not what is happening in the coffee. On a lever, the pressure in the shot comes from your arm and from how the puck resists it. A gauge on the group shows that pressure as you pull, so you can tell whether a shot ran fast because of the grind or because you pressed too lightly.

The temperature strip does the same job for heat. Every La Pavoni lever’s group warms up with each shot, and La Pavoni’s manual suggests a pause after 3 to 4 consecutive coffees. A strip on the group lets you see when it is too hot instead of guessing.

Capacity and build

The US importer lists a 38 oz nickel-plated boiler rated for 16 cups. The Amazon listing for the Abile says 54 oz. Either way it is the larger, Professional-size boiler. La Pavoni lists the boiler material as brass.

The finish is the most decorative of the chrome La Pavoni levers: rosewood handles, boiler cap and steam knobs, and a red base cover, per the importer.

Using it

Day to day it behaves like a Professional: heat up, bleed the false pressure through the steam wand as La Pavoni’s manual describes, raise the lever, let the coffee soak, press down. The difference is that you now have numbers to watch, which makes it faster to dial in a new coffee and easier to repeat a good shot.

Repair and parts

The Esperto is a current Millennium-generation lever, so it takes 51mm baskets and shares many wear parts with the Professional. Check the gasket kit listing against your model before ordering.

What to buy with it

The box already includes the baskets and bottomless portafilter many owners buy later. Spend on a grinder with fine, stepless adjustment, a distribution tool sized for the basket, and a scale.

Verdict

If you want a La Pavoni lever and would actually look at the gauges, the Esperto Abile is the most complete package. If you would not, the Professional brews the same way and leaves money for a better grinder.